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11/22/2009

Crop Rotation Concepts

If you are a home gardener, then chances are you won't want to always be growing the same exact vegetable, year after year. Then why not take advantage of the ancient practice of crop rotation?

Practically every gardener has heard of this (probably something they were taught in middle school history class, like me). But do they really know what it means? If they know anything on the subject, it's probably that pest problems can be reduced by consecutively planting vegetables from different families, but there's more to it.


1st there are several benefits to crop rotation:
1. Growing multiple varieties of plants at once is more maintainable by fewer people (the small farmer or avid gardener), because the plants needs are timed differently. All plants don't need to be planted or harvested at once.
2. Improved soil structure: root depth and dug in plants at end of harvest change soil structure in various ways
3. Improved soil nutrition: some plants add nutrients, others move nutrients around, and others just consume nutrients
4. Improved disease, weed, and insect control
5. Reduced dependence on expensive pesticides and fertilisers
6. Reduces soil erosion
7. Unexplained benefits: Some plants just simply grow better following other crops and the reasons aren't completely understood

    2nd, it's important to know the plant families:

    Family Common names
    MUST HAVE ROTATION
    Crucifer (Brassica)Arugula, bok choy (petchay), broccoli, brussels sprouts, cabbage, cauliflower, collards, kale, kohlrabi, mustard, radish, rutubaga, turnip, watercress
    Solanaceous (Nightshade)Eggplant, potato, pepper, tomato
    KEEN ON ROTATION (excluding leeks)
    AlliumChive, garlic, leek, onion, shallot
    UmbelliferaeCarrot, celery, cilantro, dill, fennil, parsnip, parsley
    LESS FUSSY
    Aster (Daisy)Artichoke, chamomile, calendula, dandelion, echinacea, endive, lettuce, marigold, sunflowers, tarragon
    ChenopodiaceaeBeets, chard, spinach
    Cucurbit (Gourd)Gourds, cucumber, pumpkins, squash, zucchini
    Legume Beans, peas, clover, peanut, soy 
    Poaceae (Grasses)Barley, corn, millet, oat, rice, rye, sorghum, sugarcanem wheat
    ???
    ConvolvulaceaeCassava, sweet potato, taro, water chestnut, yam 
    Malvaceae (Mallow)Cocoa, cotton, okra
    TetragoniaceaeNew Zealand Spinach
    ValerianaceaeMache


    3rd, there are several aspects to consider with crop rotation:
      1.STRETCH IT OUT:
      • Stretch it out over as many years as possible with as many different vegetables are possible
      • This becomes easier the larger your garden is and the more parcels you can divide it into

      2.GREEN MANURE:
      • Rotating in a green manure is beneficial
      • Examples: mustard greens, legumes, clover, vetch, alfalfa, buckwheat, oats, rye-grass, barley

      3. COMPOSTING:
      • some prefer same year composting
      • others prefer prior year composting
      • when composting is scarce, green manure can be substituted 
      • manuring helps offset (but not necessarily eliminate) the damages of negative preceding crops)

      4. PLANT SEQUENCING IS IMPORTANT:
      • Peas and beans are considered "nitrogen fixing", "green manure" adding good structure and nitrogen to the soil (nature's fertiliser). Most plants perform well after it, especially corn since it's a heavy nitrogen feeder.
      • Negative preceding crop: Most plants don't like being planted after carrots, cabbage, beets, or chard
      • Deep rooted plants: assist in pulling nutrients from deep in the soil up into shallow sections of the soil. They tend to assist in breaking up compacted deep soil.
        Shallow rooted plants: benefit from being planted after deep rooted plants. 
      • Corn, peas, and beans don't suffer the same effects after negative preceding crops.
      • Corn and brassicas are heavy nitrogen feeders
      • Brassicas don't perform well in loose soil and tend to pack the soil.
      • Potatoes tend to loosen the soil. They don't like lime.
      • Brassicas and legumes like lime.
      • Peas and beans like being planted in loose soil.
      • Onions are happy to be planted in firm soil.
      • Potatoes perform well after corn.
      • Cleaner crops - perform well against weeds. So well in fact, they reduce weeds for the subsequent crop planting. Examples include potatoes, sweet potatoes, and squash.
      • Root crops perform well following "cleaner crops" since they aren't good competitors with weeds
      • Tomatoes prefer to not rotate in that they like to always be grown where tomatoes have grown before. Doesn't mean they don't benefit from a cover crop in the winter or lots of compost though.

          Great Gardening Book(s)




          In a previous post, I have already recommended Eliot Coleman's book, Four-Season Harvest. And while it was insightful, it's predecessor, The New Organic Grower, is inspiring. It might not be for everyone, but would be great for the following people:
          1. anyone dreaming of providing home grown vegatables for their family's needs, year-round
          2. the would-be small multi-vegetable organic farmer (around 10 acres)
          3. the person interested in understanding the science and/or reasoning behind what works and what doesn't work with organic vegetable growing
          4. the organic gardener interested in learning something that could benefit them
            The book is, basically, an instruction manual on how to achieve the most effective small multi-crop organic garden. It's very detailed and specific going into great detail about crop rotation, green manuring, and composting logic. Many comparison's are made between the American vs European style of farming.

            This is the writer's website: http://www.fourseasonfarm.com/. He has been a great inspiration to me.